Berlin Districts Explained – A Local Guide’s Take from Tours of Berlin
- Matti Geyer
- 4 days ago
- 7 min read
If you walk Berlin with a guide, you quickly learn one thing: this city doesn’t really behave like one city. Berlin feels more like many towns stitched together, each with its own rhythm, history, and personality. Officially, Berlin has 12 districts (Bezirke), but when I guide visitors through the city, I almost always explain it using the 23 former districts that existed before 2001 — because that’s how Berlin actually works on the ground.
I’ve been guiding in Berlin since 2008, and below is the way I usually explain the city to guests on my tours: district by district, neighborhood by neighborhood, focusing on why a place matters, what makes it special, and whether it’s worth your limited time as a visitor.
Mitte

Mitte is where almost every Berlin story begins. Kings, emperors, Nazis, communists, and modern democrats all ruled from here. When people tell me it’s their first time in Berlin, Mitte is usually where we start — not because it’s the prettiest everywhere, but because it explains the city better than anywhere else. Museum Island, the Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, the Berlin Cathedral, and Alexanderplatz are all here, layered with traces of Prussia, the Third Reich, East Germany, and reunified Berlin. You can’t understand Berlin without spending time in Mitte.
My Best of Berlin tour is ideal for seeing the major sights of Mitte, while my Off the Beaten Path tour takes you into the district’s lesser-known areas — the places most visitors never see.
Tiergarten

Tiergarten feels very different, even though it’s right next door. This is Berlin showing off its capital-city side: wide streets, embassies, government buildings, and one enormous park at the center. On tours, I love crossing the Tiergarten because it gives people space to breathe after the intensity of Mitte. The Reichstag Dome, the Chancellery, the House of World Cultures, the Zoo, and long green paths make this area ideal for mixing history with calm.
This district features heavily on my architecture tour.
Wedding

Wedding is where Berlin drops the polished façade. It’s rougher around the edges, deeply multicultural, and much closer to how everyday life works for many Berliners. I don’t bring first-time visitors here for landmarks — there aren’t many — but for atmosphere. Markets, street life, local cafés, and parks like Volkspark Rehberge show a Berlin that isn’t staged for tourism, and that’s exactly its appeal. One of the main reasons to visit Wedding is the Berliner Unterwelten tour at Gesundbrunnen station, along with the nearby former flak tower.
Friedrichshain

Friedrichshain is one of the places where reunified Berlin reinvented itself. On one street you’ll see monumental East German architecture, on the next squats-turned-clubs and beer gardens. Visitors come for the East Side Gallery, but I always encourage them to look beyond the murals and notice how quickly the area changes once you move a few blocks away. Around Boxhagener Platz and RAW-Gelände, Friedrichshain shows Berlin’s love affair with nightlife, subculture, and reinvention.
Large parts of my Alternative Berlin tour play out in Friedrichshain, and I also offer neighborhood tours focused entirely on this district.
Kreuzberg

Kreuzberg has probably shaped Berlin’s international image more than any other district. For decades it attracted people who didn’t quite fit anywhere else — immigrants, artists, political activists — and that legacy is still visible. On tours, Kreuzberg is where stories of division, protest, and cultural mixing really come alive. The Jewish Museum, the Landwehr Canal, Görlitzer Park, and the food scene — especially Turkish Berlin — make this district essential if you want to understand the city’s attitude.
Kreuzberg features heavily on my Alternative Berlin tour, and I also offer neighborhood tours devoted entirely to this district.
Prenzlauer Berg

Prenzlauer Berg often surprises visitors who expect gritty Berlin everywhere. This was once a neglected East Berlin neighborhood full of artists and dissidents; today it’s beautifully restored, family-friendly, and café-heavy. I walk guests here to talk about gentrification and post-Wall change, especially around Kollwitzplatz and Helmholtzplatz. On Sundays, Mauerpark is especially popular in Prenzlauer Berg, drawing crowds for its flea market and lively atmosphere. Nearby, Prater Garten — Berlin’s oldest beer garden — is a local institution, while Kastanienallee is one of the district’s best streets for cafés, restaurants, and relaxed people-watching.
Pankow

Pankow itself is quieter and greener, with a more traditional feel. Schönhausen Palace is the main reason to come, and it’s a fascinating place to talk about how Prussian royal history and East German leadership literally occupied the same rooms at different times. It’s not flashy, but it’s historically rich.
Weißensee

Weißensee feels like a hidden corner of the city. The lake draws locals year-round, and the vast Jewish cemetery is one of the most moving, lesser-known historical sites in Berlin. I usually recommend Weißensee to visitors who’ve already seen the highlights and want something more contemplative.
I run tours just through Weißensee, as well as tours centered on its Jewish cemetery.
Charlottenburg

Charlottenburg tells the story of West Berlin. When the Wall went up, this became the cultural and commercial heart of the western half of the city. Charlottenburg Palace, the elegant streets around it, and Kurfürstendamm all reflect that era. On tours, this is where I talk about Cold War Berlin, old money, and the city’s more conservative side — with great museums and cafés along the way.
I offer tours focused entirely on Charlottenburg, and a large part of my Weimar Berlin tour is also set here, as this was the heart of the Roaring Twenties.
Wilmersdorf

Wilmersdorf is more residential, but historically very important. Before the Nazis, it was a center of Jewish intellectual life. Today it’s calm, leafy, and understated. It’s not essential for short visits, but it adds depth if you’re curious about Berlin beyond the obvious sights. One reason to visit would be the famous Thai Market!
Spandau (Spandau)

Spandau feels like a town that just happens to belong to Berlin. Its old town is compact and charming, and the Spandau Citadel is one of my favorite places to explain Berlin’s military history, from medieval times to the Cold War. Add rivers, waterways, and a strong local identity, and Spandau becomes a rewarding detour for visitors who want something different. One of the highlights of Spandau is the citadel museum, showcasing statues that have been taken down all over Berlin over the decades. And in winter, the district comes alive with its famous large Christmas market.
Steglitz

Steglitz is everyday West Berlin: residential, practical, and centered around a major shopping street. It rarely appears on tourist itineraries, but it helps explain how Berlin functions outside the center. You may end up here if you're visiting the Botanical Garden.
Zehlendorf

Zehlendorf is where Berlin turns green and affluent. Villas, forests, and lakes define the area. Wannsee is the big draw, especially in summer, but the House of the Wannsee Conference is one of the most important historical sites in the city. I always warn guests: it’s a beautiful place that tells a very dark story — and that contrast is very Berlin. It also features palaces and the Peacock Island.
Tempelhof

Tempelhof is all about space. The former airport, now Tempelhofer Feld, is unlike anything else in Europe. I love bringing visitors here because it perfectly shows Berlin’s ability to reuse history instead of erasing it. Whether you walk the runways or take a guided tour of the terminal, Tempelhof explains Nazi ambition, Cold War survival, and modern Berlin freedom in one place.
Schöneberg

Schöneberg is layered and lively. From Weimar-era nightlife and LGBTQ+ history to JFK’s "Ich bin ein Berliner" speech, this district packs an enormous amount into a small area. It’s a place where personal stories often resonate more strongly than big monuments.
I run tours of this neighborhood, which is also a key part of my Weimar Berlin tour, and I can take you through several cemeteries, from Marlene Dietrich’s grave to the resting places of the Brothers Grimm.
Neukölln

Neukölln is a district in motion. Long seen as poor and rough, it’s now one of the most debated parts of the city. I bring guests here to talk honestly about immigration, change, and gentrification. Bars and cafés draw visitors, but places like Britzer Garten and the edges of Tempelhofer Feld remind you that Neukölln is also about space, community, and everyday life.
Treptow

Treptow is where Berlin commemorates its 20th-century tragedies on a monumental scale. The Soviet War Memorial is powerful and deliberately overwhelming, and Treptower Park is one of the city’s most pleasant riverside walks.
I love bringing visitors here on extended World War II, Cold War, or Off the Beaten Path tours.
Köpenick

Köpenick feels almost unreal if you only know central Berlin. A historic old town, a palace by the water, forests and lakes everywhere — this is where I tell guests that Berlin is officially Germany’s largest city and one of its greenest. The story of the Captain of Köpenick adds a uniquely Berlin sense of humor to the area.
Marzahn

Marzahn is often misunderstood. Yes, it’s full of socialist-era housing blocks, but it’s also home to the Gardens of the World, which are genuinely spectacular. For visitors interested in East German planning or unexpected green spaces, Marzahn is worth the journey.
Hellersdorf

Hellersdorf is quieter and more suburban. It rarely features on tours, but it helps complete the picture of how Berlin expanded and absorbed its outskirts during the 20th century. It's full of "Plattenbauten", so it couldn't look more East German.
Lichtenberg

Lichtenberg is essential for understanding East Germany. The Stasi Museum is located in the former headquarters, and it allows visitors to see how surveillance was organized bureaucratically — not just dramatically. This is also where Berlin's other zoo - the Tierpark - is located.
Hohenschönhausen

Hohenschönhausen is emotionally one of the hardest places to visit in Berlin. The former Stasi prison, now a memorial, confronts visitors with the reality of repression. I always say: this isn’t an easy stop, but it’s one of the most important. Most tour guides here were former inmates. Otherwise, it's another very East German neighborhood.
Reinickendorf (Reinickendorf)

Reinickendorf rarely makes it into guidebooks, but Tegeler See and the surrounding forests make it a favorite among locals. For visitors who want nature, water, and breathing room — without leaving the city — it’s a great option.
A Guide’s Closing Thought
Berlin only really makes sense once you stop treating it like a checklist of sights. Each former district tells part of the story: power and protest, trauma and reinvention, everyday life and grand history. If you explore Berlin through its neighborhoods — not just its landmarks — you’ll start to understand why even Berliners argue endlessly about which part of the city is the real Berlin.