Why Is Baba Yaga Watching You in Potsdam? A Journey Through Fairytales, Folklore, and Russian History

If you’ve ever wandered through the leafy paths of Alexandrowka, the historic Russian colony in Potsdam, you may have noticed something strange—a witch perched on a balcony, peering down at you from a wooden house straight out of a Slavic fairytale. With her long nose, wild hair, and hunched figure, there’s no mistaking who she is:

Baba Yaga, the most famous—and feared—witch of Eastern European folklore.

But how did this terrifying figure from Russian myths end up in a peaceful corner of Potsdam? The answer, as it turns out, involves a fascinating mix of Soviet childhood nostalgia, Cold War cultural ties, and centuries-old Russian-German history.

Who Is Baba Yaga? The Bone-Legged Witch of the Woods

In Slavic folklore, Baba Yaga is an ancient and ambiguous figure: a witch who lives in a hut on chicken legs, deep in the forest, flying through the air in a mortar and pestle. She is at once a villain, a trickster, a helper, and a force of nature. Her house turns to face visitors only if it’s spoken to with the right charm. She eats children—or helps them. She guards secret knowledge—or blocks the way to it.

She’s one of those mythic figures who seems to have escaped time, blending ancient pagan archetypes with fairy-tale logic. And she became immortal in more ways than one—especially during the Soviet era.

East Germany’s Baba Yaga Obsession: Childhoods Haunted by Fairytales

While the West grew up on Disney princesses, children in the former East Germany (GDR) grew up on a steady diet of Soviet fairytale films, often dubbed into German and broadcast on state television.

One of the most unforgettable characters to East German children? Baba Yaga.

A standout performance comes from the 1973 Soviet film Der Hirsch mit dem goldenen Geweih ("The Golden Horns" or simply "Baba Yaga" in English), where Georgi Millyar—the legendary Russian character actor—portrays Baba Yaga in full grotesque glory. Millyar, known for embodying Baba Yaga in several films, became the definitive version for generations of Eastern Bloc viewers. Cloaked in rags, with a crooked broom and cackling laugh, his Baba Yaga was terrifying—and iconic.

These films were part of a shared cultural landscape between East Germany and the Soviet Union, and Baba Yaga became a symbol deeply lodged in the collective memory of those who grew up behind the Iron Curtain.

Alexandrowka: A Russian Village in the Heart of Potsdam

Now, fast-forward to Potsdam.

Nestled on the northern edge of the city lies Alexandrowka, a picturesque neighborhood of wooden Russian houses, built between 1826–27 on the orders of King Frederick William III of Prussia. It was a gesture of friendship toward Tsar Alexander I and housed Russian singers from a Prussian military choir.

The colony was constructed in traditional Russian architectural style—gabled roofs, carved balconies, and all—and its layout reflects both military discipline and Slavic aesthetic. It’s not a fantasy village—it’s real history, and it’s stunning.

North of the colony stands the Russian Orthodox Chapel of Saint Alexander Nevsky, built in 1829, a rare example of Russian ecclesiastical architecture in Germany. It still serves the Russian community and adds to the haunting beauty of this historic enclave.

The Witch on the Balcony: Baba Yaga in Alexandrowka

So where does Baba Yaga come in?

Right in the middle of Alexandrowka, you'll find a charming Russian restaurant, simply called Restaurant Alexandrowka. But don’t let the cozy wooden house fool you—because up on the balcony, looming over the garden, is a full-sized Baba Yaga witch doll, peering out like a guardian of Slavic folklore. There’s another Baba Yaga figure hidden in the garden, tucked among the flowers and trees.

It’s funny. It’s creepy. And it’s completely fitting.

This playful-yet-unsettling installation is a nod to both the folkloric roots of Alexandrowka and the cultural memories of East Germans who remember Baba Yaga from their childhood TV screens. It's also a wink to visitors who know their fairy tales—and a chilling surprise for those who don’t.

A Living Fairytale in Potsdam

In many ways, Alexandrowka itself feels like a place from a fairytale: its history tied to royal friendship, its architecture preserved like a time capsule, and its atmosphere heavy with memory. Baba Yaga, always the ambiguous guardian of forest paths, fits right in.

So the next time you're in Potsdam and feel a pair of eyes watching you—look up. You might just catch Baba Yaga staring down from her perch, waiting to see if you know the magic words to pass safely by.

Plan Your Visit - Or join me on a Potsdam tour:

• Alexandrowka Museum: Learn about the history of the colony.

• Saint Alexander Nevsky Chapel: Open to visitors, services held in Russian.

• Restaurant Alexandrowka: Enjoy borscht, blini, and a surreal brush with Baba Yaga herself.